Diamond Shapes: A Guide to Popular Diamond Shapes

Diamond Shape

The shape of a diamond is the most noticeable feature of the stone and is usually the first characteristic people recognise. It defines the diamond’s overall outline and has a significant influence on the style and personality of a piece of jewellery.

Just as no two diamonds are identical, personal taste also varies from one person to another. Some people are naturally drawn to classic shapes, while others prefer something more distinctive or modern.

At Lorel Diamonds we offer a wide selection of diamond shapes to suit different styles and preferences. Alongside our range of diamonds, we also provide educational information to help you understand the differences between each shape and decide which option is right for you.

The term shape is sometimes mistakenly used interchangeably with cut. For example, you may hear terms such as Round Cut or Princess Cut. However, diamond cut and diamond shape refer to different characteristics.

Diamond cut describes how expertly the stone has been crafted from the original rough diamond. It relates to the proportions, symmetry and finish of the diamond. You can learn more about diamond cut in our dedicated guide.

Diamond shape, on the other hand, refers simply to the outer form or outline of the stone. This includes popular options such as Round, as well as shapes like Princess, Oval, Marquise and other fancy shapes.

Below you can explore the range of diamond shapes available at Lorel Diamonds, along with further details about the characteristics of each one.

Length to Width Ratio

The length to width ratio describes the relationship between the measurements of a fancy shape diamond. It indicates how long a diamond appears compared to its width when the stone is viewed from above.

Every fancy diamond shape has a range of proportions that are generally considered desirable for that particular style. These proportions help maintain the balanced appearance that each shape is known for.

Within our individual diamond shape guides, we outline the minimum and maximum length to width ratios that we typically work within for each shape.

That said, the ideal ratio is not always the same for everyone. Personal preference plays an important role when choosing a diamond. If you are looking for a specific ratio or appearance, our team can help source a diamond that closely matches your requirements.

The length to width ratio itself is calculated by dividing the diamond’s length by its width. For example, a Princess shape diamond measuring 4.45mm in length and 4.40mm in width would have a ratio of 1.01. With proportions this close, the diamond would appear almost perfectly square. This is commonly seen in shapes such as Princess, Asscher and Cushion diamonds.

Other shapes naturally have more elongated proportions. For instance, a Marquise diamond can often appear around twice as long as it is wide, giving it a much narrower and more stretched outline.

Although new diamond shapes continue to be developed, there are ten classic shapes that remain the most recognised and widely chosen. In the following sections, we explore these shapes in more detail.

Round

The Round diamond is the most widely chosen diamond shape, accounting for approximately 60–70% of all diamonds sold worldwide.

One of the main reasons for its enduring popularity is the amount of research and development that has gone into perfecting this shape. The round brilliant design has been refined over many years to maximise the way light travels through the diamond, producing exceptional brightness and sparkle. Because of its carefully balanced proportions, the Round shape is widely regarded as delivering the highest levels of brilliance and fire.

Another advantage of Round diamonds is their versatility. They suit a wide variety of jewellery styles and complement both modern and classic designs. Their balanced shape also makes them easy to pair with different settings and suitable for everyday wear, which is why they remain such a timeless choice. For those who are uncertain about which diamond shape a partner or recipient might prefer, a Round diamond is often considered a safe and popular option.

Most Round diamonds are cut in the brilliant style, which features 58 facets. These facets are carefully arranged to reflect light throughout the stone, helping to create the well-known sparkle associated with this shape.

Below you can see an example of a Round diamond, and you can also browse the full collection of Round diamond engagement rings available at Lorel Diamonds.

Princess

The Princess diamond is one of the most popular diamond shapes, second only to the Round in terms of demand.

Recognisable by its sharp corners and typically square outline, the Princess shape offers a distinctive look that blends modern style with classic appeal. Its clean lines and balanced proportions make it a favourite choice for engagement rings.

Princess diamonds are known for their impressive sparkle. The arrangement of facets within the stone allows light to reflect and refract effectively, creating strong brilliance and fire. Because of this, the Princess shape is often compared to the Round diamond and is sometimes described as the square alternative to the traditional Round brilliant.

Another appealing feature of the Princess shape is its full, square appearance. This can sometimes make the diamond appear slightly larger than a Round diamond of the same carat weight while still delivering excellent sparkle.

The most sought-after Princess diamonds are those that appear perfectly square. For this reason, the diamonds we source typically fall within a length to width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05, ensuring a balanced and well-proportioned shape.

Below you can see an example of a Princess diamond, and you can also view the full Princess diamond engagement ring collection available at Lorel Diamonds.

Emerald

Emerald diamonds are most commonly rectangular and are easily recognised by their distinctive cut corners and step-style faceting.

Unlike brilliant cut diamonds, which use triangular and kite-shaped facets, step cut diamonds feature long, parallel facets arranged in rows. This faceting style creates a very different visual effect compared with shapes such as Round or Princess.

While Emerald diamonds still reflect light beautifully, their sparkle is more subtle and refined. Instead of a highly scattered brilliance, the step facets create broader flashes of light and a cleaner, more elegant appearance. This gives the diamond a sophisticated and uncluttered look.

Another defining feature of the Emerald shape is its large, open table (the flat top surface of the diamond). Because this area is more exposed, inclusions or clarity characteristics can be easier to see than in brilliant cut diamonds. For this reason, it is generally advisable to choose a higher clarity grade when selecting an Emerald diamond.

To ensure the diamond appears eye-clean, we typically recommend a clarity grade of VS1 or higher for Emerald cut diamonds. It is also worth noting that as carat weight increases, the table of the diamond becomes larger, which can make clarity characteristics more noticeable. Larger stones may therefore benefit from even higher clarity grades.

Emerald diamonds are often associated with vintage-inspired designs and are an excellent option for those looking for a style that feels elegant, understated, and a little different from more traditional diamond shapes.

For Emerald diamonds, the length to width ratios we typically source range from 1.25 to 1.45, helping to maintain the classic rectangular proportions associated with this shape.

You can explore the full collection of Emerald cut engagement rings at Lorel Diamonds to see more examples of this distinctive diamond shape.

Asscher

The Asscher diamond is often described as a square version of the Emerald shape due to the similarities in its cutting style.

Like Emerald diamonds, Asscher diamonds use a step cut, where the facets are arranged in parallel rows. The main difference is that the Asscher shape is typically square rather than rectangular, giving it a more balanced and symmetrical appearance.

Because of the large, open facets created by the step cut, clarity is an important consideration when choosing an Asscher diamond. The faceting style can make internal characteristics more visible than in brilliant cut diamonds, so selecting a good clarity grade helps ensure the stone appears clean to the eye.

Asscher diamonds are strongly associated with vintage jewellery, particularly designs inspired by the Art Deco era. One of their most distinctive features is the striking optical pattern created by the step facets, often referred to as the “Hall of Mirrors” effect. This produces a unique visual appearance with broad flashes of light that differ from the sparkle seen in brilliant cut diamonds.

For Asscher diamonds, the length to width ratios we typically source range from 1.00 to 1.05, maintaining the classic square proportions that define this shape.

You can explore the full selection of Asscher cut engagement rings at Lorel Diamonds to see examples of this distinctive and elegant diamond style.

Marquise

The Marquise diamond is a distinctive elongated shape with gently curved sides that taper to pointed ends. Its outline is often described as boat-shaped and gives the diamond a graceful, elegant appearance.

Because of its long proportions, the Marquise shape can offer excellent visual size. Diamonds of this shape often appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight, as their extended surface area makes them look more prominent when viewed from above.

When set in a ring, the elongated design can create the illusion of longer, more slender fingers. Marquise diamonds also pair beautifully with side stones, particularly shapes such as Round or Pear, which can complement and enhance the overall design of the ring.

Like many brilliant style diamonds, Marquise diamonds typically feature 58 facets. These facets are arranged to reflect and refract light throughout the stone, allowing the diamond to maintain impressive sparkle despite its unusual shape.

For Marquise diamonds, the length to width ratios we usually source range between 1.70 and 2.20, helping preserve the elegant elongated proportions that define this shape.

Below you can see an example of a Marquise diamond, or browse the full collection of Marquise diamond engagement rings available at Lorel Diamonds.

The Bow-Tie Effect

Some elongated diamond shapes can display what is known as the bow-tie effect. This occurs when light travelling through the diamond creates a darker shadow across the centre of the stone, forming a shape that resembles a bow tie.

This visual effect can be seen in several elongated shapes, including Marquise, Pear, Oval and Heart diamonds.

A slight bow-tie effect is completely normal and is a natural result of how light interacts with these diamond shapes. When selecting diamonds, we aim to minimise this effect by choosing stones with well-balanced proportions and suitable depth measurements.

If a diamond is cut too deep, the dark line may become less noticeable, but this often comes at the cost of reduced brightness and sparkle. The goal is therefore to find a diamond with proportions that maintain excellent brilliance while keeping the bow-tie effect as subtle as possible.

Oval

The Oval diamond shares many similarities with the Round diamond, particularly in the way it is cut. Most Oval diamonds feature 58 facets, the same number typically found in Round brilliant diamonds, which allows them to reflect light beautifully and produce strong sparkle and brightness.

Its elongated outline gives the Oval diamond a distinctive look while still maintaining much of the brilliance associated with the Round shape. Because of this, it is often chosen by those who appreciate the sparkle of a Round diamond but would like something slightly more unique.

The Oval shape can also create a flattering visual effect when worn in a ring. Its longer proportions can give the appearance of longer, slimmer fingers, making it a popular choice for engagement rings.

Another advantage of Oval diamonds is their ability to appear larger than Round diamonds of the same carat weight. The elongated surface area allows more of the diamond to be visible from above, which can make it an excellent option for those looking to maximise the visual size of their diamond.

For Oval diamonds, the length to width ratios we typically source range from 1.30 to 1.50, helping maintain the elegant, balanced proportions that define this shape.

Below you can see an example of a Oval diamond or explore the full collection of Oval diamond engagement rings available at Lorel Diamonds.

Radiant

Radiant diamonds are easily recognised by their trimmed or cropped corners, which help give the shape its distinctive appearance.

This diamond shape blends characteristics from both brilliant and step cut styles. It combines the strong sparkle associated with Round diamonds with the overall outline typically seen in shapes such as Princess or Emerald, creating a unique and eye-catching look.

Radiant diamonds feature a complex faceting pattern, usually consisting of around 70 facets. These facets are arranged to maximise light reflection throughout the stone, producing vibrant brilliance and lively sparkle — perfectly suited to the name “Radiant”.

The shape works well in both square and slightly rectangular proportions, offering a versatile option for those looking for something a little different while still enjoying excellent sparkle.

For Radiant diamonds, the length to width ratios we typically source range between 1.15 and 1.35, helping maintain balanced and attractive proportions for this shape.

You can explore the full selection of Radiant diamond engagement rings at Lorel Diamonds and see an example of this distinctive diamond style in the images below.

Pear

The Pear diamond, sometimes called a teardrop shape, features one rounded end that tapers to a single point. This distinctive outline combines elements of both the Round and Marquise shapes, creating a design that is elegant and eye-catching.

Because of its unusual silhouette, the Pear diamond is often chosen by those looking for something a little different from more traditional diamond shapes.

When set in a ring, the diamond is most commonly worn with the pointed end facing away from the hand, which helps enhance the elongated appearance of the stone.

Like several other brilliant-style shapes, Pear diamonds typically feature 58 facets. These facets are arranged to reflect light effectively throughout the stone, helping to create impressive sparkle and brightness.

Pear diamonds also work particularly well in halo settings, where smaller surrounding diamonds highlight the unique outline of the centre stone. Pear halo designs are especially popular for engagement rings.

For Pear diamonds, the length to width ratios we generally source range from 1.35 to 1.65, ensuring the diamond maintains balanced and elegant proportions.

Below you can see an example of a Pear diamond, or browse the full collection of Pear shape diamond rings available at Lorel Diamonds.

Heart

The Heart diamond is one of the most recognisable and symbolic diamond shapes. Its distinctive outline has long been associated with love and romance, making it a meaningful choice for jewellery that celebrates special occasions.

Because of this strong connection with affection and commitment, Heart shaped diamonds are often chosen for gifts marking important milestones such as birthdays, anniversaries, and engagements.

The shape itself requires precise cutting in order to achieve balanced and symmetrical proportions. When well cut, the cleft at the top and the two rounded lobes create the classic heart outline that makes this diamond so distinctive.

Smaller Heart diamonds can sometimes make the shape harder to recognise, particularly in stones below 0.50 carat. In these cases, settings such as halo or bezel designs can help emphasise the outline of the diamond and make the heart shape more visible.

For Heart diamonds, the length to width ratios we typically source range from 0.85 to 1.05, helping maintain the balanced proportions that define this shape.

You can explore the full collection of Heart shaped engagement rings available at Lorel Diamonds to see more examples of this romantic diamond style.

Cushion

The Cushion diamond is often referred to as a pillow-cut diamond due to its soft, rounded outline.

This shape combines a square or slightly rectangular form with gently rounded corners, creating a look that feels both classic and elegant. The Cushion cut is frequently associated with vintage jewellery styles and is sometimes considered a more traditional interpretation of the Round diamond.

Cushion diamonds typically feature 58 facets, arranged in a way that allows light to reflect throughout the stone. Because these facets are generally larger than those found in many other shapes, they can produce strong flashes of light and impressive sparkle.

With its soft edges and balanced proportions, the Cushion diamond has a distinctive antique-inspired character. It remains a popular choice for those who appreciate jewellery with a timeless or vintage feel.

For Cushion diamonds, the length to width ratios we usually source range between 1.00 and 1.05, helping maintain the classic square appearance associated with this shape.

You can explore the full selection of Cushion diamond engagement rings available at Lorel Diamonds to see examples of this elegant diamond style.